By Laura
Union Square Market and Ramps
This is just the kind of day I like. Up before dawn, but who could tell because it is pouring rain. I love spring rain storms and the smell of the garden or the smell of the city streets. It reminds me of tramping thru Bloomsbury or shopping on the Place de Madeline. A rainy day in New York City is equally as special.
It is Wednesday in Union Square Market and the early spring has pushed forth a cornucopia of salad greens and the mighty Spring Ramps. The urban foragers go crazy for the wild ramps and the pickling, sautéing and chopping begin in earnest.
Have you ever had a pickled Ramp? It is wonderful in a martini when an onion is called for. Or along side a grilled burger. My favorite way to use ramps is in a simple pasta dish replacing the garlic with the sauteed ramps in a Spaghetti Al Olio.
It is a wonderful primi piatti or satisfying as a late night supper. Better still my daughter relishes every fork-full. I cut up use the entire ramp, from the bulb to the glossy green leaves. Sautéing each part separately is the secret – as with all good cooking, the same size pieces cook best. By adding the same size and textured pieces to your saute pan, you will cook the ramps evenly – insuring a perfect meal. First slice the bulbs, then the shaft, then the leaves – adding each to the pan in succession allowing each part of the ramp to cook a bit before adding the next.
This meal is particularly good with crusty bread and a big green salad.
1 lb of whole wheat pasta – preferably fettucini
Two good size bunches of ramps
Olive oil – I cook with extra virgin
Sea Salt
Black Pepper
Grated Parmesan Cheese
1 – Bring a pot of water to a boil with salt.
2 – Slice the ramps – from the bulb to the leaves
3 – Cook the pasta in the boiling water.
4 – While the pasta is cooking begin sautéing the ramps – first cooking the sliced bulbs and then the stems.
5 – Drain the pasta
6- Add the ramp leaves to the saute pan and immediately add the cooked pasta.
7 – Toss with parmesan cheese and serve on a platter
Cooking with Fire: The Ultimate Cowboy Steak
We are very lucky indeed. Our country home has an fire pit fitted with an outdoor grill. It overlooks Shinnecock Bay and the cool spring evenings are perfect for watching a moonrise and sipping a martini.
Another perk is the ability to cook over an open fire all year round. A quick steak with a salad and oven fries is our usual Saturday night fare. Something delicious, easy and spontaneous that can serve my family of 3 or a feast for more if friends drop by.
One of my favorite cuts of meat is a shell steak – so I was pleasantly surprised when Andrea Geary wrote about it in the June edition of Cook’s illustrated. Although I always rub my steak with a simple version of green herbs, fresh garlic, olive oil and salt or a spicy chili rub when company calls, she suggested spicing things up with a quick glutamate paste of fish sauce, tomato paste, onion & garlic powder, and salt for one hour before cooking. She was playing with the Fifth Taste, Umami – something my father would do without knowing, when he added Worcestershire Sauce to every meal. I was intrigued.
Simply – the steak is scored with a shallow slits and let sit in a marinade for 1 hour. This glutamate or Umami “marinade” changes the structure of the muscle fibers of the protein so that they hold on to more juices and it is hardly detectable to the taste. When the rub is added and the steak put to the flame, you have a wonderful, tender, delicious steak that any cowboy would be glad to call dinner.
I must say this is a step I have never tried and it makes a big difference.
Grilled Steak with Chili & Espresso
2-3 Shell Steaks
Marinade:
2 t tomato paste
2 t fish sauce
1 1/2 t natural sea salt – or kosher salt although I prefer sea salt
1/2 t onion powder – something I never use but stay with me
1/2 t garlic powder – again, something I never use but it will make a difference
Spice Rub:
2 Dried New Mexican Chilies – you can substitute an Ancho Chile if you dare
4 t whole cumin seeds
4 t coriander seeds
1/2 t cayenne pepper flakes
1/2 t black pepper – tellicherry peppercorns is my choice
1 t organic sugar
1 t finely ground espresso coffee
1t smoked paprika – hot paprika can be substituted but the smoked adds a depth of flavor
1/4 t cloves
Vegetable oil spray:
- With a sharp knife make 1/16” slits 1/2” apart in a diamond pattern on both sides of the steak.
- Make the ‘marinade” by mixing all ingredients and rubbing the paste into the steak.
- Let sit for one hour at room temperature
- Prepare the fire 30 minutes before grilling
- Make the spice rub by toasting the first 5 ingredients for 3 to 5 minutes in a hot cast iron pan. Be care to use a vent or keep a window open as the hot pepper can cause your eyes to tear.
- Cool in an open bowl and add the final 4 ingredients. Grind with a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle. If you prefer a chunky rub.
- Press 1/2 of the spice rub onto the tops of the steaks and spray with a light coating of vegetable oil. do the same to the second side.
- Cook over a hot fire until brown and charred – about 3 to 4 minutes per side. The steak should register at 125 to 130 degrees for medium rare.
- Tent with aluminum foil for 10 minutes – this is an important step that is often forgotten.
- Slice thin against the grain
Visiting LA Restaurants
Selling Cheese at the Farm Shop in LA
Earlier in the month I was in Los Angeles visiting my good and gracious friend Nancy on my way to the TED conference. We toured neighborhoods, shopping streets and farmers markets, enjoying the wonderful weather and delicious food. There seems to be a trend of white table restaurant chefs opening smaller, cozier, simpler spaces. Jeffrey Circiello, formerly a member of the casual dining team at French Laundry does an out standing job at Farm Shop – where the dining and shopping experience come together under one roof. At Short Order, Nancy Silverton of La Brea Bakery and the late Amy Pressman of Pasadena’s Old Town Bakery showcase comfort food and the simplicity of cooking as they would in their own homes in. Both restaurants, it is interesting to note, are in Farmer’s Markets.
Our favorite meal by far was at Tavern – the new and well celebrated Suzan Goin restaurant , bar & grill and food shop. The restaurant brings together a fine dining room, a casual bar & grill and a coffee shop for eat ins and take aways all seamlessly under one roof. Everything about the restaurant is perfect – from the color of the room to the upholstered mustard gold couches. Even Nancy, a former decorator and developer was impressed with the feel of the room. “It’s unlike anything in LA right now – but I want to live here.” Adjacent to the dining room and bar is a perfectly stocked Larder – the food shop/cafe for casual eating, take out & catering. I am so inspired by this foodie jewel box of a restaurant. I wish we had an outpost here in NYC. By the way our meal was terrific.
We ate a number of wonderful meals – in fact one was better than the next – including our breakfast of almond croissants from The Little Door in Nancy’s kitchen over looking the Holly wood sign – ok Dorothy – your not in Kansas anymore….
Split Chicken with Meyer Lemons and Garlic
I opened Susan Goin’s “Sunday Suppers at Lucques”, a favorite cookbook of mine. What to do tonight? Inspired by my recent trip to LA, I defrosted an organic chicken from Iaconne Farms in East Hampton, bought two containers of English peas – because one is never enough, and a couple of Meyer lemons and kumquats due to my daughters prompting…and now dinner.
Split Chicken with Meyer Lemons and Garlic
5 lbs Whole Chicken
3 Meyer Lemons
1 Onion
1 Head of Garlic
Fresh Sage Leaves
Salt
White Pepper
Herbes de Provence
1 – Cut the back bone out of the chicken- you can do this with a sharp knife or cheat and use poultry sheers then split the bird for more instruction see http://italianfood.about.com/od/tipstricks1/ss/aa051505_5.htm)
2 – Zest the 3 Meyer lemons. Reserve the zest and juice 2 of the lemons.
3 – I rinse the chicken under running water and then “wash”with Meyer lemon juice.
4 – Mix the Meyer lemon zest, herbes de provence, sea salt, chopped sage and white pepper in a small bowl.
5 -Rub well into the chicken – both front and back.
6 – Chop the onion and 1/2 the head of garlic .
7 – Pour 1 to 2 T of olive oil into a small roasting pan – add the onion and garlic. They will be your aromatics.
8 – Rest the chicken over the vegetables.
9 -Place the roasting pan in a 400 degree oven – close door and immediately and lower heat to 375 degrees.
10 – Chop the second half of the garlic into chunky pieces.
11- Roast for 20 minutes – take out the bird, begin basting and sprinkle the chopped garlic over the bird. It is important to remove the roasting pan from the oven – close the door and baste the chicken outside of the oven every 20 minutes. Doing so allows the oven to remain hot.
12 – I roast my chickens for 90 minutes – the basting interrupts the cooking time but insures a juicy bird.
13 – When the chicken is cooked – the juices run clear.
14 – Tent the chicken and rest for 10 to 15 minutes. In the mean time juice the last lemon and drizzle the juice over the carved chicken pieces.
Easy Peasy English Peas with Kumquats
What shouts Spring more than English Peas? nothing! Absolutely nothing. Their season is short so cook them when you can. Traditionally they are cooked with mint and butter. But what about kumquats? The colors are so spectacular together – it has to be good.
1 lb. of Fresh English Peas
9 to 12 Kumquats
Pitch of Sea Salt
Pat of Butter -optional
1 – Slice the kumquats painfully thin – 5 to 6 slices per kumquat.
2 – Add to a pot with a scant 1/2 cup of water. Simmer on a low flame while you shell the peas.
3 – When the peas are shelled add a pinch of sea salt to the simmering water and then add the peas.
4 – Cover and cook longer than you think – about 4 to 5 minutes – the peas should still be bright green and not a bit grey.
5 – You can add a pat of butter to the pot – but I find them delicious as is. A nice change from mint and equally as fresh.
Green & Yellow Squash Gratin
Truthfully, I have to clean out my refrigerator and the yellow & green squash have to go into a gratin. This one is easy and very light – using milk and a tablespoon of flour instead of cream. Honestly if I had the cream, I would have used it – but cooking in the moment is my best at – so here goes.
2 Yellow Squash
2 Green Squash
1 T of Unsalted Butter
1/2 cup of Grated Parmesan Cheese
3/4 cup of Low Fat Milk
1 T Flour
Pitch of Salt
White Pepper
Grated Nutmeg
1- Slice the green & yellow squash on a long slim diagonal.
2 – Butter a gratin dish with 1/2 the butter.
3 – Layer the squash alternating with a layer of grated parmesan cheese.
4 – when finished, wish the milk, flour, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg in a bowl and pour over the gratin.
5 – Bake in a 350 degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes – when the top is golden.
6 – Lets cool for 5 minutes and slice into serving pieces with a sharp knife and serve with an off set spatula.
Corned Beef with Rhubarb Sauce
The winter seems to have passed with out much notice here on the east coast. There was no snow to speak of and my garden soil never froze. In fact I have 5,000 pot holes where a gang of very fat squirrels have dug up and eaten all of my spring bulbs. The funny thing is – I have a Feist – a dog that is bred to hunt squirrels in trees. Both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson had such dogs and wrote fondly of their hunting skills. But my dog “Lucky” has been reduced to fear – hiding under a bush in the corner of the garden as the gang of squirels – who are far to big too climb the trees – – picnic on my bulbs.
But there is always hope in the early spring garden. My witch hazel is in full bloom, as is the crocus and the snow drops. Before you now it the apples will be in blossom and the rhubarb will be poking out of the soil. Maudy Tuesday has passed and St Patricks day is right around the corner. Corn beef and cabbage is a spring tradition in the O’Brien household and I take a very unconventenial approach to my preparation having had many boiled dinners in my life.
I look forward to celebrating St Patrick’s Day with this dinner each year. The recipe is flavorful and surprisingly lean with a nod to a tradition. The beauty of the dinner is the flavorful rhubarb sauce accompinied by smashed yukon gold potatoes and sauted red cabbage and garlic. it is just about the most perfect perfect way to welcome spring.
This dinner takes a bit of planning but is well worth the effort. Corned beef is a type of salt-cured beef. The term comes not from the grain corn, but from the treatment of the meat with “corns” of salt. Due to the ubiquity of salting beef for preservation in many cultures, corned beef features prominently as an ingredient in many cuisines, including the Jewish, Irish American, and Caribbean cuisines. First order a thick cut organic corned beef preferably with no nitrates. Worth the trouble, potassium nitrate is added to keep the meat a bright pink color – I’d rather do without it. Whole Foods or Natures Way feature several organic – no nitrate brands.
Corned Beef with Rhubarb Sauce
4 to 5 lb Corn Beef – preferably organic with no nitrates
4 to 6 cups apple cider
2 lbs fresh or frozen rhubarb – cut into 1” pieces
2 T Garam Marsala Spices
First trim every visible piece of fat off the corned beef. Some of you may not agree – but there is enough fat between the meat to keep the corned beef tender.
Pour 4 cups of apple cider – enough to cover the corned beef in a dutch oven. Add 1/2 the chopped rhubard.
Heat the liquid and add the trimmed corned beef and the rest of the rhubarb.
Sprinkle in 2 T of the spice mix. Cover and cook on a medium heat until the “sauce” spits and boils.
Uncover and simmer for 60 to 90 minutes until all the fat is rendered off the corned beef and your rhubarb sauce is as thick as custard.
Take the meat from the pot and let it rest “tented” under foil for 10 minutes. The apple cider and rhubarb tenderize the meat in the cooking process.
When serving, slice the corned beef at a severe angle and serve with rhubarb sauce and dijon mustard.
Leftovers make excellent open face sandwiches.
Smashed Yukon Gold Potatoes
3 pounds of Organic Yukon Gold Potatoes
2 T butter – I prefer Organic
1/2 to 1 cup of milk – I prefer Organic
Natural Sea Salt
White Pepper
Fill a 4 qt pot with water. Add a generous pitch of natural sea salt
Wash and quarter the potatoes
Boil the potatoes until fork tender – about 30 minutes
Drain the pot of the boiling water and it place back on a very gentle heat to dry the pot and potatoes.
Add 2 T unsalted butter – cut these into small pieces to melt quicker
Smash the potatoes with an old fashioned potatoe masher.
Slowly add milk while continuing to smash the potatoes – Yukon Golds are surprisingly soft and creamy – you really won’t need much milk
Test for salt and add some white pepper
Other variations:
If you would like you can add a few cloves of garlic to the boiling water to make a Garlic Smashed Potatoes
If fresh herbs are on hand, a generous sprinkling of finely chopped parsley adds a fresh flavor.
If calories are not an issue – salt pork or bacon is a wonderful old world addition
Red Cabbage Sauted with Garlic
One of the easiest vegetables is sliced red cabbage sauted with garlic – the color looks glorious and the flavor is tastefully delicious
1/2 a head of Red Cabbage
Natural Sea Salt
Garlic
Olive Oil.
The trick here is to slice the cabbage as fine as you can – a rough chop is fine but for a truey spectacular dish use a mandoline or cuisinat with a fine shreadding disk
Add enough olive oil to just about cover the bottom of a cast iron frying pan.
Add 4 to 6 chopped cloves of garlic – cook until lightly gold – don’t over cook
Add the red cabbage and a good pinch of salt
Saute – turning every few minutes on medium heat.
Cook until tender and when the cabbage is slightly limp.
So Cupid walks into a Bar
So Cupid walks into a bar – assuming a guy with wings could get a drink at a bar – what would he order? I believe he would have to be in Venice. The Venetians are tolerant of so many legendary characters that I am quite sure Cupid would have no problem being served. After all, didn’t Casanova escape from Piombi Prison in Venice with the aid of his paramours – the only prisoner to escape the Doge’s prison…ahh love and Venice!
Harry’s Bar, where the classic Belini was created, is the best in Venice. The world for that matter. Here’s a take on this favored cocktail inspired by the thought of Cupid strolling into Harry’s Bar in February when Blood oranges are in season:
Cupid’s Choice
12 oz Prosecco
3T Blood Orange Marmalade
1/4t Grenadine –even the traditional Bellini had a hit of raspberry or cherry juice to give the cocktail a pink glow.
Simply pour 12 oz of Prosecco into a cocktail mixer and stir in the Blood Orange Marmalade and grenadine. Strain and serve straight up in a champagne flute or over ice in a highball glass.
A non- alcoholic version can be made with club soda adding a touch more marmalade for a light refreshing beverage.
Flourless Valhrona Chocolate Cake
Valentine’s Day means exactly one thing to me – Chocolate. And I am not faint of heart. I like a good bittersweet rich dark chocolate, preferring cake to candy. About 6 or 7 lives ago, I worked as a cook in the kitchen at Bouley in New York City. I was Garde Manger and loved being called Madame Canape by the Chef . Bill Yosse was the Pastry chef – and he made a chocolate cake that was legendary. I think I ate one every day for a year. Bill has been the pastry chef at the White House under the Bush and Obama administrations and I love following his recipes whenever he shares them.
But back to the chocolate cake. This is plain as can be with a rich texture and a deep chocolate flavor. A cinch to make, the key is choosing and gathering the right ingredients. When making anything chocolate, choose the very best…I love Valhrona for it’s deep bittersweet chocolate flavor. In my opinion Valrhona Le Noir 68% is the perfect chocolate. Valrhona is a French chocolate manufacturer in the town of Tain-l’Hermatage in Hermitage, the wine growing district near Lyon. Their focus is on high grade luxury chocolate and considered one of the foremost chocolate makers in the world. Valrhona produces “vintage” chocolate made from beans of a single year’s harvest from specific plantations primarily from the Gran Crus which grow in South America, Oceania, and the Caribbean.
Not unlike a good bottle of wine each chocolate brand has it’s own unique flavor – Callebaut from Belgium, and two American brands Scharffen Berger and Ghirardelli are also worth considering. And if you are hungry for chocolate and have only a bag of chocolate chips in your pantry, by all means go ahead and make the cake. It will be far superior to anything store bought. I know it sounds as if I am contradicting myself. But this cake is delicious and tastefully chic any way your slice it.
Flourless Valhrona Chocolate Cake
1 Pound Valhrona Dark Chocolate
10 T European style butter – it makes a difference in baking
4 Large eggs
1 T Sugar
1 cupHeavy whipping cream
¼ t Bourbon Vanilla Extract
Baking Notes: Bring all ingredients to room temperature before mixing: eggs & whipping cream should be at room temperature , the butter should be soft. The chocolate should be melted then cooled to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees
Butter the bottom and sides of an 8” spring form pan & line the bottom with parchment
Chop your chocolate into small pieces and melt in a double boiler
Add the butter one tablespoon at a time to the chocolate and stir to melt.
Bring the chocolate & butter mixture to room temperature. (If you are in a hurry you can put this is the refrigerator for 10 minutes)
Whisk the eggs and the sugar with an electric mixer until they are light and tripled in volume – about 5 minutes. The mixture should produce soft ribbons of batter – do not over mix. This can also be done by hand.
Fold 1/3 of the egg mixture into the chocolate – do this by hand as to not loose volume. This is called lightening the batter. Then fold the chocolate into the egg mixture.
Place the mixture in the prepared pan. Bake until set 18 to 25 minutes
Cool on a wire rack. Remove sides of pan – and invert on a serving dish.
Chill
When ready to serve whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form – and I do like adding a drop of vanilla.
Super Bowl Pulled Pork
What could be better than walking your local farmers market on a balmy winter’s day? Here in NYC the temperature just hit 60 degrees & the Union Square Market is glistening in the morning sun. I have my favorite Saturday vendors and today I was on a hunt for a pork shoulder.
Nothing says a lazy winter afternoon to me more than a slow cooked pork roast. The aroma of the spices and the warmth of the oven as filling your home is as good as it gets. I usually make a traditional roast but next week is Super Bowl Sunday & I decided to try something different. This recipe takes a bit of planning – but is has the Sartor family seal of approval and that is good enough for me.
My dear friend Forrest Sartor recently shared this recipe with me. She is an excellent cook – who has taught me a thing or two about Southern Fried Chicken, Cheese Grits, Pecan Pie and Life. Raising her family in Monroe, Louisiana she continues a long-standing tradition of good food and Southern hospitality.
Forrest explained that she & her husband would get up at 5:00 in the morning to cook a pork roast on a smoker for her pulled pork sandwiches. Her mother in law passed on this recipe to her and as Forrest said, “It is just as good and so much easier and quicker. I thought you may want to try it. It is great to have for a crowd, and both the sauces are good for sandwiches.” I feel like I have the Pope’s blessing!
One note, the recipe calls for pork shoulder but Forrest suggest pork butt. I prefer an organic pork butt preferably from your local farmer’s market. I have never matched the flavor and quality of pork from Violet Hill Farms or Flying Pig Farms. Each is unique and their sausages are sensational.
Sartor Family Pulled Pork
Makes 14 cups of Pork
Total Time: About 8 hours plus Resting
¼ cup kosher salt – JF Natural Gres Salt even better
¼ cup Ground Black Pepper – JF Butchers Grind Black Pepper
¼ cup Chili powder – JF Rough Rider Chili
1 T Dried Oregano
1 T Dried Thyme
1 t Cayenne Pepper
1 Bone in Pork Shoulder – or Pork Butt
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees
Combine salt, pepper, chili, powder, oregano, thyme, & cayenne in a bowl.
Place a large sheet of foil on a roasting rack, then layer another sheet on top of it perpendicular to the first. Place the pork in the middle of the foil; rub the spice mixture on all sides of the pork, crimping the foil closed at the top to ensure a tight seal. Crimp all sides of the foil closed
Roast the pork for 5 to 6 hours. Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Open the foil to expose the pork, roast until the crust is dark and crisp, another 20 minutes. Remove the roast from the oven. Let the pork rest until it is cool to the touch – about 30 minutes.
Transfer the pork to the cutting board and pull out the large bone from the roast. This should slide out easily with no resistance.
Using two forks, pull pork apart and discard any visible pieces of fat or gristle before serving. Serve pork with Mustard Sauce or Vinegar Sauce.
Mustard Sauce
Makes 1 3/4 cup
Total Time 15 minutes
1 cup Prepared Yellow Mustard – or Dijon
½ cup White Vinegar
1/3 cup Packed Brown Sugar
2 T Unsalted Butter
1 T Molasses
1 T Worcestershire Sauce
½ Cayenne Pepper
To Make: Simmer Mustard, vinegar, brown sugar, butter, molasses, Worcestershire, & cayenne in a sauce pan over a medium heat stirring often.
Vinegar Sauce
Makes 2 cups
Total Time: 5 minutes
1 ½ c Cider Vinegar
½ cup Organic Ketchup
2 T Brown Sugar
2 T Molasses
1 T Worcestershire Sauce
1 T Ground Black Pepper – – JF Butchers Grind Black Pepper
Kosher Salt to taste – – JF Natural Gres Salt
Whisk vinegar, ketchup, brown sugar, molasses, Worcestershire, pepper & salt until smooth.
Salmon with Pomegranate Seeds and Tangerine
Welcome 2012! And with the New Year comes a checklist of reflections and maybe a resolution or two. For me easiest way to jump-start 2012 is a quick salmon dinner that brings together healthy food and seasonal flavors. The bonus is that it is a cinch to make – perfect for a family dinner or a weekend dinner party
Choose a piece of Wild Salmon – if you are able to get Steelhead Salmon lucky you. The Steelhead season in the Olympic Peninsula starts in December and runs thru April and is definitely worth looking for. This dish also works perfectly with frozen salmon and if the Wild King Salmon from your fishmonger has been “previously frozen” I would encourage you to purchase that over a farm raised fish.
1 Piece of Salmon – preferably with skin
1 Tangerine
½ t sea salt
Pinch Black Pepper
1t Herbes de Provence
½ cup Pomegranate Seeds
Olive oil
One pat of butter (optional – I like the flavor)
Oil a cast iron pan with a light coating of olive oil to keep the fish from sticking
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
Season the salmon fillet with salt and pepper – both sides
Zest the skin of the tangerine and hold aside
Juice the tangerine – a lemon juicer works best
Place the salmon in the center of the pan, you can add a scant drizzle of olive oil and or a pat of butter on the fish. (You can omit this step is you are watching your weight)
Pour the tangerine juice, the tangerine zest, the Herbes de Provence, and the Pomegranate Seeds over the fillet.
Place the dish in the 350-degree oven and cook 10 minutes per inch of fish. At least once during the cooking open the oven and spoon the juices over the fish. Let the salmon rest tented in foil for 5 minutes before serving.
I love the ease of this dish – and you can experiment with other citrus and herb combinations. Meyer Lemons and Dill or Grapefruit and fresh Chives also combine beautifully.
Moitié-Moitié Fondue
Fondue Moitié-Moitié is well suited for those long winter nights or after a day of skiing while sitting in front of the fire or watching an old movie. With one pot to clean up what could be better? My brother-in-law James has a Swiss friend and colleague who has shared his family recipe for a Fondue Moitié-Moitié using Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois. James makes it on Christmas Day for our family along side of his wife’s Bourbon Glazed Ham.
Fondue refers to several French Swiss communal dishes always shared at the table in an earthenware pot called a “caquelon” or over a small burner called a “réchaud”. The term “fondue” comes from the French “fondre” (“to melt”), referring to the fact that the contents of the pot are kept in a liquid state so that diners can use forks to dip into the sauce. Though cheese fondues are the best known, there are several other possibilities for the contents of the pot and what is used for dipping — recipes are not entirely fixed and vary depending on the cook.
Making fondue is easy – a heavy pot is best, either enamel or cast iron. And as always the better the ingredients the better the result. We were instructed to use Vacherin Fribourgeois & Gruyère and were told it is better to ask for “the “cave-aged” Gruyère as it is only slightly more expensive than the regular one, but it has a much better taste.
Traditional Moitié-Moitié Swiss Fondue
2 cups Dry White Wine (one cup per person)
2 cloves Garlic – finely minced
1 T Cornstarch
1/2 lb Vacherin Fribourgeois & 1/2 lb Gruyère – grated
1 to 2 T Kirschwasser
1 to 2 Baguettes – cubed
Rub the inside of the pot with the two cloves of garlic and place the pot on a medium flame adding 2 cups of the wine and the cornstarch. Blend with a spoon or whisk.
Add the grated cheese and stir consistently until all the cheese has melted and the fondue is smooth. You may want to lower the heat a bit – to keep the cheese from scorching. For safety, remove the pot from the flame and add the Kirschwasser. Stir. Return to the flame and cook to the correct thickness.
The fondue is fully cooked when it is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon – if it is too thick add more wine and continue to stir.
Serve in a fondue pot with cubed bread on skewers – a baguette would be perfect but any good loaf of crust bread would do.
Half the fun of the fondue is in the eating – a glass of dry white wine – preferable chilled is the traditional accompaniment – although a good winter beer is also nice. In a perfect cheese fondue, the fondue mixture is held at a temperature low enough to prevent burning, but hot enough to keep the fondue smooth and liquid. Ideally, when the fondue is finished, there will be a thin crust of toasted (but not burnt) cheese in the bottom of the caquelon. In French, this is commonly referred to as ‘la religieuse’ (“the nun”).
Often a snifter of Kirschwasser is served alongside the fondue – bread dipped in a touch of kirsch just before it is dipped into the fondue pot warms the spirit as well as the heart. And it is important to continue the Swiss tradition of the “dropped” bread. If bread is dropped into the pot – you must kiss someone at the table for good luck. This could be fun but optional depending on the company you keep.
A List of Traditional Swiss Fondues:
Fondue Neuchâteloise: Gruyère and Emmental
Fondue Moitié-Moitié: (half-half): Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois
Fondue Vaudoise: Gruyère
Fondue Fribourgeois: pure Vacherin Fribourgeois (often served with potatoes instead of bread)
Fondue de Suisse centrale: Gruyère, Emmental and Sbrinz
Tomato Fondue: Gruyère, Emmental and crushed tomatoes in the place of wine.
Spicy Fondue: Gruyère, red and green peppers and chilli
Mushroom Fondue: Gruyère, Vacherin Fribourgeois and mushrooms
French Fondues:
Fondue Savoyarde: Comté Savoyard, Beaufort, and Emmental.
Fondue Jurassienne: pure mature and normal Comté
Italian Fondues:
Fonduta: is prepared in the French-minority region of Aosta valley in Italy, and employs Fontina, milk, eggs, and truffles